{"id":1032,"date":"2023-08-29T17:55:46","date_gmt":"2023-08-29T15:55:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/you.se\/artiklar\/?p=1032"},"modified":"2023-09-19T10:14:54","modified_gmt":"2023-09-19T08:14:54","slug":"sahar-doftar-du-gott-hela-dagen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/you.se\/artiklar\/sahar-doftar-du-gott-hela-dagen\/","title":{"rendered":"S\u00e5h\u00e4r doftar du gott\u00a0hela dagen"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Du har s\u00e4kert undrat hur det kommer sig att vissa dofter funkar s\u00e5 bra p\u00e5 en kompis men inte p\u00e5 dig, eller varf\u00f6r doften inte varar p\u00e5 din hud hela dagen \u00e4ven fast du inte sn\u00e5lar med sprut\u2026till detta och mycket mer svarar v\u00e5r parfymexpert Katia, s\u00e5 forts\u00e4tt l\u00e4sa om du vill dofta gott hela dagen l\u00e5ng!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dofternas struktur<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Du har kanske redan h\u00f6rt talas om den klassiska doftstrukturen, den s\u00e5 kallad doft-pyramiden, indelad i topp, hj\u00e4rt- och basnoter\u2026och h\u00f6rt d\u00e5 att varje doft du k\u00f6per g\u00e5r igenom dessa tre \u00b4faser\u00b4\u2026 \u00e4r det verkligen s\u00e5?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Det var f\u00f6rst den legendariske parfym\u00f6ren Jean Carles (skapare bland annat av Shocking, Tabu och den f\u00f6rsta Miss Dior) som f\u00f6rst anv\u00e4nde sig av den h\u00e4r metaforen f\u00f6r att f\u00f6rklara till en oerfaren kund hur parfymindustrin fungerade. Den \u00e4r dock en struktur som passade v\u00e4l de gamla franska klassiker d\u00e4r parfymer g\u00e5r igenom tre distinkta faser och har en tredimensionalitet som utvecklas p\u00e5 huden i olika stadier, men som knappast st\u00e4mmer sett till dagens parfymindustri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sanningen \u00e4r att dagens dofter oftast inte \u00e4r byggda runt en parfympyramid struktur och kan vara b\u00e5de mer enformiga\/linj\u00e4ra eller mer komplicerade \u00e4n s\u00e5.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Doftpyramiden i korta drag:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Toppnoterna<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Toppnoterna \u00e4r de som ger dig f\u00f6rsta intrycket av en parfym. N\u00e4r parfymen f\u00f6rst n\u00e5r din hud avdunstar de mest volatila ingredienserna f\u00f6rst, dessa kallas oftast som toppnoter och \u00e4r de som f\u00f6rsvinner snabbast fr\u00e5n din hud eftersom de \u00e4r dem flyktigaste. Typiska exempel p\u00e5 toppnoter \u00e4r citrus, i alla dess variationer -mandarin, grapefrukt, citron, apelsin-, samt aromatiska noter, s\u00e5som lavendel, anis, enb\u00e4r, angelikarot, mynta, \u00f6rter, te och andra gr\u00f6na noter, mm. Deras l\u00e5ngvarighet varierar mellan 5\u201320 minuter, d\u00e4rf\u00f6r \u00e4r det alltid klokt att testa en doft p\u00e5 huden en l\u00e4ngre stund innan man best\u00e4mmer om den passar oss eller inte. Ta din tid n\u00e4r du testar en ny parfym och l\u00e5t dig inte \u2019luras\u2019<\/a> in av dess \u00f6ppningsnoter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hj\u00e4rtnoterna<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hj\u00e4rtnoterna \u00e4r de som k\u00e4nns direkt efter toppnoterna avdunstar, de utvecklas under en varierande tid fr\u00e5n 20 minuter till flera timmar, de \u00e4r v\u00e4ldigt viktiga i en doft som har denna struktur, f\u00f6r att de anv\u00e4nds f\u00f6r att balansera och fl\u00e4ta samman basnoterna med toppnoterna. Typiska exempel p\u00e5 hj\u00e4rtnoter \u00e4r tydliga blomnoter, s\u00e5som jasmin, natthyacint, ros, ylang-ylang eller apelsinblomma, samt mer nyanserade blomnoter s\u00e5som iris, viol, heliotrop, immortelle, nejlika, pion, geranium. Fruktiga noter \u00e4r ocks\u00e5 ofta anv\u00e4nda som hj\u00e4rtnoter: allt fr\u00e5n skogsb\u00e4r till tropiska frukter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hj\u00e4rtnoterna \u00e4r v\u00e4sentliga i en parfym, de ger den dimension och pondus. Om toppnoterna \u00e4r som ett f\u00f6rsta leende som \u00e4r till f\u00f6r att locka fram intresse, hj\u00e4rtnoterna \u00e4r som f\u00f6rsta samtalen, som till\u00e5ter oss l\u00e4ra k\u00e4nna varandra mer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Basnoterna<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Basnoterna \u00e4r de som blir kvar p\u00e5 din hud \u00e4ven efter flera timmar, de \u00e4r oftast de djupaste och mest l\u00e5ngvariga noterna i din doft. Det \u00e4r de noterna som ger parfymen sin karakt\u00e4r och sj\u00e4l, de brukar ocks\u00e5 best\u00e5 av ingredienser som \u00e4r k\u00e4nda f\u00f6r att ha en bra l\u00e5ngvarighet. Exempel p\u00e5 typiska basnoter \u00e4r noter som ambra, sandal, tonkab\u00f6na, ekmossa, patschuli, vanilj, mysk, naturligt animaliska noter s\u00e5som ambregris, oud, sibet, l\u00e4derackorder eller syntetiska noter som ambroxan\/cashmeran\/amberwood\/iso e-super.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dock g\u00e4ller denna klassiska pyramid-indelning inte f\u00f6r alla dofter. Vissa parfymer \u00e4r menade att vara flyktiga, s\u00e4rskilt f\u00f6r att tillkalla fr\u00e4sch\u00f6r, det ser man ofta p\u00e5 de dofterna vars noter \u00e4r en rad av citrusfrukter\u2026medan andra \u00e4r lite mer linj\u00e4ra, dvs efter toppnoterna f\u00f6rsvinner forts\u00e4tter de mer eller mindre dofta precis likadant under hela perioden man b\u00e4r doften (med minskat intensitet mot slutet).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hur stark \u00e4r din parfym?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

En annan faktor som spelar in \u00e4r \u00e4ven parfymkoncentrationen. I vanliga fall, den vi kallar \u00b4parfym\u00b4 \u00e4r en blandning av doftoljor och alkohol i olika koncentrationer, dvs, olika m\u00e4ngder doftolja kan f\u00f6rekomma i en doft.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Den svagaste doftoljekoncentrationen finns i de s\u00e5 kallade Eau Fraiche, som inneh\u00e5ller upp till 2% doftolja, upp till 4% hittar vi de s\u00e5 kallade Eau de Cologne (EdC), fr\u00e4scha dofter som avdunstar snabbt, \u00e4nnu vidare har vi Eau de Toilette (EdT), som kan variera mellan 5\u201315% i doftoljehalten, medan den vanligaste parfymkoncentrationen \u00e4r Eau de Parfum (EdP) och inneh\u00e5ller mellan 15\u201320% doftolja.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Desto h\u00f6gre koncentrationen desto l\u00e4ngre brukar parfymen sitta p\u00e5 huden, s\u00e5 se till att k\u00f6pa EdP om det \u00e4r viktigt f\u00f6r dig att doften ska sitta l\u00e4nge. Vissa varum\u00e4rken och s\u00e4rskilt nicheparfymhus erbjuder ocks\u00e5 Extrait de Parfum eller Parfum (20\u201340% doftolja).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Personlig kemi<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Det \u00e4r inte bara parfymkoncentrationen som avg\u00f6r hur l\u00e4nge en doft varar p\u00e5 huden men en del andra faktorer som spelar in, s\u00e5som luftfuktighet, temperatur, hudtillst\u00e5nd. Parfymen brukar sitta mycket kortare tid p\u00e5 torr hud, d\u00e4rf\u00f6r \u00e4r mitt tips nr.1 f\u00f6r att f\u00f6rl\u00e4nga l\u00e5ngvarigheten av din parfym att anv\u00e4nda den p\u00e5 en ordentligt \u00e5terfuktad hud. H\u00e4r hittar du n\u00e5gra alternativ, b\u00e5de budget och lite dyrare:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Budget lotion (ej parfymerad): HTH Original Body Lotion 50ml<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lyxigare lotion (ej parfymerad): NEOSTRATA Bionic Lotion 200ml<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Layer med vaniljdofter: Bare Vanilla Fragrance Body Lotion 236ml<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Layer med s\u00f6ta dofter: Love Addict Fragrance Body Lotion 236ml<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Layer med fr\u00e4scha dofter: Geranium & Grapefruit Body Milk 236ml<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dessutom om din parfym \u00e4r en EDT\/EDC\/Eau Fraiche och du vill att den ska dofta hela dagen s\u00e5 rekommenderar jag att fylla p\u00e5 en liten atomizer och ta med dig den f\u00f6r att plunta under dagen. H\u00e4r hittar du en.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kom ih\u00e5g \u00e4ven att alla vi har olika mikrobioma, dvs olika bakterier som lever p\u00e5 v\u00e5r hud, samt olika PH v\u00e4rden, olika temperaturer och olika hormoner, som g\u00f6r att en doft som luktar underbart p\u00e5 en kompis kan vara helt annorlunda p\u00e5 dig.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Var varsam ocks\u00e5 om du alltid anv\u00e4nder samma doft eller \u00f6ser p\u00e5 med en stark doft, v\u00e5r hj\u00e4rna v\u00e4njer sig snabbt med dofter och du kan bli drabbad av anosmi, of\u00f6rm\u00e5ga att k\u00e4nna doften alls, d\u00e4rf\u00f6r \u00e4r det viktigt att vi ibland byter parfym och \u00e4ven att vi l\u00e5ter n\u00e4san \u00b4vila\u00b4 fr\u00e5n alltf\u00f6r kraftiga dofter om vi vill beh\u00e5lla luktsinnet i toppskick.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tyckte du artikeln var intressant? L\u00e5t oss veta genom att l\u00e4mna en kommentar och st\u00e4ll g\u00e4rna dina fr\u00e5gor om det finns n\u00e5got du undrar \u00f6ver!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gl\u00f6m inte att f\u00f6lja oss p\u00e5 @you.sverige f\u00f6r mer inspiration och parfymprat \ud83d\ude0a<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vi \u00f6nskar dig en toppendag<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Katia @thebudgetperfumista<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Du har s\u00e4kert undrat hur det kommer sig att vissa dofter funkar s\u00e5 bra p\u00e5 en kompis men inte p\u00e5 dig, eller varf\u00f6r doften inte varar p\u00e5 din hud hela dagen \u00e4ven fast du inte sn\u00e5lar med sprut\u2026till detta och mycket mer svarar v\u00e5r parfymexpert Katia, s\u00e5 forts\u00e4tt l\u00e4sa om […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1035,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1032","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-skonhet"],"yoast_head":"\nS\u00e5h\u00e4r doftar du gott\u00a0hela dagen • YOU.se<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/you.se\/artiklar\/sahar-doftar-du-gott-hela-dagen\/\" 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